“Most people are drawn to the rapids, but I think the views from the river are spectacular”
Donovan Rice has now been hiking the Great Colorado Route for 84 days and has walked approximately 1,106 miles.
His accounts during week 12’s hike included accessing the Royal Gorge Bridge from the southern entrance, taking a ‘zero’ day float trip on the Arkansas River deep in the gorge and sleeping among the company of vampires in Victor.
Rice is averaging 13.16 hiking miles/day over the 12 weeks he’s been thru hiking.
A Royal view
On Day 78, Rice started where he left off the previous day, at Temple Canyon southwest of Cañon City.
But today was special.
Instead of taking the planned GCR route downstream via Grape Creek, Rice was granted special access to the rear entrance (south rim access) of Royal Gorge Bridge.
“Here I am at the southern gate,” Rice said on his Day 78 social media post. “Again, it is special permission only. Right now it is a one-off time for my hike, but I hope to be a good ambassador and show that it’s worthwhile for future hikers.”
The Royal Gorge Bridge is the highest suspension bridge in the United States and held the title of world’s highest bridge from 1929 until 2001. The bridge is 956 above the rive and spans 1,260 feet in total length.
Rice spent a solid part of the day at the bridge, taking in the views from atop the expansion, saying in an excited voice, “Check out those views.”
Rice said he has a special connection to the Royal Gorge area.
He spent a large portion of his childhood at Royal Gorge as well as worked as a raft guide on the Arkansas River within the gorge.
To close out the day, Rice received a ride from his dad back to Cañon City for the night.
Floating the Arkansas & hiking through Cañon City
Treating himself to a ‘zero’ day on Day 79, Rice took the opportunity to float down the Arkansas River with Whitewater Adventure Outfitters, plus dine on some Rocky Mountain Oysters afterwards.
“It’s a family business, and I got the chance to raft the Gorge with my dad,” Rice said. “Most people are drawn to the rapids, but I think the views from the river are spectacular.”
The Royal Gorge raft trip Rice took had some Class IV rapids, making for a relaxing but effort-based day even if he had to put away the phone for an hour or two.
“I was a very unhelpful paddler with my father while we were going down the river here,” Rice said of recording the canyon scenery while on the river.
After the raft trip, Rice snagged some Rocky Mountain Oysters, a Colorado delicacy, saying of the taste, “Rocky Mountain Oysters are like if Chicken Gizzards and Salisbury Steak had a baby.”
Rice took the scenic path around Cañon City on Day 80, hiking several of the town’s iconic trails.
He walked the Royal Cascade Trail, Tunnel Drive, the Arkansas River Walk and the very famous Skyline Drive.
“Royal Cascade was seasonally closed until today (Aug. 1) for bighorn lambing season,” Rice said. “I really lucked out timing (wise), as the alternatives were far less attractive and Royal Cascade is super scenic!”
Rice decided to hike through Shaws Park via County Road 69 into Seep Springs BLM trail system and Red Canyon Park off of his dad’s thought.
This alternative route ended up suiting the GCR hike better than Rice’s planned route along Red Canyon Road.
Rice found camping along the Maverick Trail to close out the day.
Hiking among a different set of Red Rocks
Rice found himself on Day 81 continuing north on OHV trails in Maverick Gulch, crossing into Red Canyon Park as the heat of the day built up.
“I followed Maverick Trail and a dirt road to Red Canyon where I took Chipeta’s Way, which gave a great view of Red Canyon’s beautiful rocks,” Rice said. “I think these are the same layer of rocks that compose GoG (Garden of the Gods) and Red Rocks.”
The rocks are part of the Fountain Formation. The rocks are made up of ancient red sandstone and coarse conglomerates deposited between 290-300 million years ago.
After hiking through Red Canyon Park, Rice found himself hiking south to Oil Well Flats, linking up to Fracture and Unconformity trails.
“The latter (Unconformity) was through a very sun exposed burn scar, which was rough in the midday heat (90s),” Rice said. “The real struggle was then getting up Cooper Mountain Trail with the heat.”
The day’s heat was not without added intrigue as well.
Rice said he came across mountain lion droppings and passed by a mama black bear and her cub “who ran off after spotting me.”
The Phantoms and vampires of Victor
For Day 82, Rice, now back on the main GCR route, finished out Cooper Mountain Trail, then followed along Phantom Canyon to the mining town of Victor.
“I didn’t see many cars, and the views were great, for a roadwalk,” Rice said. “The info signs said this used to be a railroad that connected Cripple Creek to Cañon. I guess Victor truly is the ‘victor’ since it’s the only stop that’s still a town.”
Rice said Victor reminded him of Rico in the San Juan Mountains and Crestone in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, both towns with unique traits unlike most mountain communities he had visited so far.
“I met several kind and affable locals, and one of them described town as an ‘open air asylum’,” Rice said.
Keeping to the quirky theme, Rice checked into the Black Monarch Hotel, a horror-themed hotel, to close out the day’s hike.
The Black Monarch Hotel was built after an 1899 fire. The historic building once served as a saloon, brothel and casino, and now offers dark, Victorian Gothic-themed lodging paired with reported paranormal activity.
“I got the Dracula room, decorated floor-to-ceiling with Béla Lugosi’s Dracula posters, paintings, pillows, and action figures; a horror cinephile’s must-see destination,” Rice said.
Visiting the open spaces west of Colorado Springs
Day 83 Rice pushed out of Victor toward Colorado Springs via Gold Camp Road to Seven Lakes Road, staying off the private road to Tracie Group Mine and Bull Park.
Rice has been very careful in avoiding private property on the Great Colorado Route hike, as there is a fair amount of private land scattered between BLM and National Forest lands along the route.
Rice rejoined the main GCR route at Frosty Park Road and continued hiking east.
Rice passed by the beautiful Cathedral Park in Pike National Forest while hiking on Gold Camp Road.
“Today has been very similar to Uncompahgre Plateau,” Rice said. “Maybe not the most exciting stretch, but chill roads with little traffic and some nice parks.”
Rice also walked through some rock tunnels along Gold Camp Road.
“Yesterday was largely a road connector,” Rice said. “But the views were really nice near Cathedral Park, plus the tunnel is pretty cool.”
Rice camped near Frosty Park to end his day.
For Day 84, Rice left the Frosty Park/Mount Rosa area early morning and jumped on the St. Mary’s Falls Trail to hike past St. Mary’s Falls on his way toward Red Canyon Open Space.
He did this instead of backtracking to Pipeline Trail in order to descend into Colorado Springs a different way.
“I also visited the various other falls at North Cheyenne Cañon before taking High Drive (should have taken 666) to Palmer Red Rock,” Rice said. “Then (a) mixture of trails through Red Rocks (Canyon), including the really cool quarry.”
The Kenmuir Quarry was the largest stone quarry in Red Rock Canyon, opened in 1888 by the Greenlee family of Denver. It produced prized Lyons sandstone used in historic buildings across Colorado before closing in the early 20th century.
Rice ended his day staying in Colorado Springs.
What’s ahead for Rice
Rice will start week 13 by hiking through Garden of the Gods, then some uphill suffering on the Manitou Incline on his way to Barr Camp.
The main GCR route takes Rice up America’s Mountain’s east face to the 14,115-foot summit of Pikes Peak. If he summits Pikes Peak, it will be his 11th 14er he’s climbed while on the Great Colorado Route.
After Pikes Peak, Rice will work his way northwest toward Mueller State Park and Divide, Colorado, eventually reentering Pike National Forest on his way toward the Goose Creek Trailhead and the Lost Creek Wilderness.
In his own words
Most satisfying moment from week 12
- “My most satisfying moment this week for sure was crossing the Royal Gorge Bridge as part of the thru hike,” Rice said. “The Gorge is so special to me, and the park was so kind to accommodate me.”
Most challenging moment from week 12
- “The biggest challenge this week was the heat,” Rice said. “I really struggle when temperatures shoot above 90°, and that’s only made worse when there’s no shade, no wind, no water, and uphill climbs.”
What he’s learned from week 12
- “My biggest lesson this week was how cool the town of Victor is.” Rice said. “I really enjoyed it’s affable, small-town atmosphere. It’s a neat little mining town.”
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